The Doges and the Opera

Part 14:  The Doges and the Opera

 The Doge's Palace - Palazzo Ducale

The Republic of Venice was a dominant military, economic and trading power from the 7^th century until it fell to Napoleon in 1797.  The Doge was the head of state, first elected in the early years of the 8^th century when Venice was a province of the Byzantine Empire.    A measure of the Doge’s power and status in Venice is that until the 18^th century St Mark’s Church was considered the Doge’s Chapel and a special pulpit was built in it for him to lead prayers and make announcements.

The present palace dates from the latter 12^th century, although it has been added to many times. Construction of what we see today began in mid 14^th century.  Fires in the 14^th, 15^th and 16^th centuries all resulted in large renovations and additions. In the late 19^th century the Italian government made major renovations.  In 1923 Italy gave management of the Palace to Venice to be run as a museum.
The exterior of the Palace is a mixture of Byzantine and Venetian influences

This is the court yard of the Palace and the Golden Staircase which leads to the Doge’s living quarters and offices whence he and the 120 senators met and ran the state.  No photography is allowed in these rooms. 

This is a special mailbox in the Courtyard into which palace employees could put unsigned messages to the Doge providing secret information about any of the palace employees.

In 1714 the Bridge of Sighs was built to transport prisoners between the prison and the courts in the Doge's Palace. Here is the prisoner’s view of the Lagoon from the Bridge of Sighs.

We were allowed in the prison and allowed to take pictures.

Bonnie returning from her hearing.  Judge let her out – time served

 

A Cell with quadruple bunking

 

The courtyard (but not by Marriott)

The Opera – La Fenice

Opera is to Venice as the NFL is to the U.S:  a spectacle to see and a place to be seen.   In the 18^th century Venice had seven opera houses.  La Fenice (Gran Teatro alla Fenice) was the largest and one of the most famous in Europe.  In 1996 a fire (Arson? Probably, but by whom?) destroyed the interior.  It was restored and re-opened in 2003.  The interior is magnificent, but over the top for my tastes – but so is opera.

John Behrendt (the author of Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil) has written a great book about the fire, and the politics of re-building La Fenice and assigning guilt - The City of Falling Angels.  It is also a great portrait of the politics of Venice.  One intriguing line from the book, spoken by a citizen of Venice:  “Never believe anything a Venetian tells you.”  

For you Phoenix people, La Fenice means “The Phoenix.”  Aren’t you proud?